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Monday 21st July 2003


I just wrote this then lost it all, so this entry will be the quick version. I’m in Rio in a long blue internet cafe full of young Brasilians gleefully playing computer games. Outside it’s the most perfect balmy day, a sort of golden Autumn, with a slight breeze. Me and my fictional characters are far too happy…it will be hard to make much conflict in this story. We’ve been cycling along the beaches on rusty bikes hired from a man who just gave us some bikes and told us to leave them outside the hotel. No names, no deposits, no nothings. You can cycle for miles along the beach paths, past people dancing to ghetto blasters, selling coconuts, jogging, showing off their biceps and playing football. You could watch people all the time. It’s endlessly fascinating and uplifting. No sign of any gun men, or women, and no one has hassled us at all. The most dangerous thing is a taxi ride…we went the wrong way down a dual carriage way yesterday…but even that becomes oddly normal.

We went up a steep hill, past shrubs filled with flowers like bright scarlet lips, to see Christ The Redeemer who looks over Rio with a kind, bemused expression. You can drink any kind of juice in the world here…cashew juice, seaweed juice…

We’ve been dancing, trying to move our hips and not our bodies. There’s music everywhere. Found out about a church called The Chrurch of Moses Snake That Ate The Other Two. This will, I think, be my working title. More later.